How to Refinish Wood Furniture
What you'll need:
Here's everything you'll need to get it right the first time.
  • Trisodium phosphate (TSP) or substitute
  • Sandpaper (coarse and fine grit—80-220)
  • Paper or cloth dust mask
  • Tack cloth
  • Safety glasses
  • Lint-free cloths
  • Cloth drop cloth
  • Empty tin can
  • Sanding block
  • Natural bristle brush (for oil-based stains and paints
  • Polyester nylon brush (for water-based stains and latex paint)
  • Paint—porch and floor paint, high-quality latex paint or premium enamel spray
  • Paint—or interior wood stain (oil- or water-based)
  • Oil-based polyurethane (optional)

 
Ready to update that yard sale find or family heirloom—maybe add some colour to a new piece of unfinished furniture? Before you begin, get to know the furniture you’ll be refinishing.
 
 
Step 1 – Assess the Condition
 
Important: If you will be removing paint that was applied prior to 1960, it probably contains lead.

Removal of Lead-Based Paint

There are several steps you can take to reduce your exposure to lead.

  1. Have the painted item replaced.
  2. Have professionals trained in removing lead-based paint do the work.

Each of the following paint removal methods can produce lead fumes or dust that can be inhaled or ingested. The wet method generates the least amount of airborne fumes and dust.

  • Wire brushing or wet hand scraping with the aid of a nonflammable solvent or abrasive compound. Read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions and warning labels before purchasing and using. It is important to use personal protective equipment (such as gloves, safety glasses and disposable coveralls) when using some paint strippers.
  • Wet hand sanding and/or power sanding with HEPA filters. Only wet hand sanding and/or an electric sander equipped with a HEPA-filtered vacuum attachment should be used. Dry hand sanding should never be done.
  • Heat stripping, using a low-temperature heat gun followed by hand scraping. Heat guns pose a fire hazard and can create dust and vapours, so they should be used only by experienced workers wearing respirators.

The following methods of paint removal are hazardous (and in some communities illegal) and should NOT be used:

  • Open flame burning or torching
  • Machine sanding or grinding without a HEPA attachment
  • Abrasive blasting or sandblasting
  • Power washing without a method to trap water and paint chips

Exterior work should be done on calm days, and wet misting or vacuuming should be used to control lead dust and paint chips during removal. The ground around the building should be protected with heavy (6 mm) plastic sheeting. The outer edges of the sheeting should be raised to trap dust, debris and liquid waste. Waste should be disposed of properly, per local government ordinance.

If your furniture is a true antique—more than 100 years old—or a true collectible, like Shaker or Heywood-Wakefield, we recommend you first consult with a professional antique restorer before you touch it. Altering these pieces in any way could harm their resale value.


 
Step 2 – Select Your Product
 

If you choose to paint your furniture, we recommend a gloss or low-sheen latex porch and floor paint (for added durability—good for furniture that gets a lot of use); a high-quality satin or semi-gloss latex paint; or a premium enamel spray paint in a gloss or satin finish.

Go to Explore Colours to select your latex paint colour. Visit our Colour Explorer to select a spray paint colour.

TIP: For colour inspiration, turn to nature for ideas. Warm tones can be found in woods and trees, while pebble rocks reflect cooler tones. Or maybe you want to add a more modern twist to an old piece of furniture. Try a bold colour that adds a bit of “pop” to your room, like lime green, red or orange.

If you will be staining, choose a water-based or oil-based stain with a semi-solid opacity for richer colour and coverage. You may also want to cover it with an oil-based polyurethane coating.

View colours available in ready-mix stains, custom tints or polystains.

TIP: Test your colour selection on the bare wood surface of a chair bottom where it won’t be seen.


 
Step 3 – Prepare Your Workspace
 

Find a well ventilated area—such as a garage or basement with windows—and lay your drop cloth on the floor. If you are using spray paint, you may also want to hang a drop cloth on the wall to catch stray mist.


 
Step 4 –Prepare Your Furniture
 

Coating new, unfinished furniture?

Prepare Your Unfinished Furniture

You will need:

  • 80-100 (coarse) grit sandpaper
  • Paper or cloth dusk mask
  • 220 (fine) grit sandpaper
  • Tack cloth, or cheesecloth with sticky residue

Lightly go over the wood surface with 80-100 grit sandpaper, to create a surface ready for adhesion. Go back over it again with a 220 grit paper to get the grain to “pop.”

Next, run a tack cloth (or cheesecloth with sticky residue) over the surface to remove every last bit of sawdust. Doing so will help create a professional-quality finish.

Need to remove old paint?

Stripping Away Old Paint

Make sure you heed the lead warning for removing old paint, as well as our recommendation for restoring antiques, in Step 1 before you begin.

You will need:

  • A putty knife
  • 320 grit (fine) sandpaper
  • Paper or fabric dust mask
  • Tack cloth, or cheesecloth with sticky residue
  • Mild (non-ammoniated) bleach or TSP (trisodium phosphate)
  • Transparent adhesive (“invisible”) tape for tape test

If you have a sound painted surface, you will only need to sand the edges smooth before you repaint it. For uneven and/or peeling surfaces use the putty knife to remove any loose paint chips, then lightly sand them with fine-grit sandpaper to remove any remaining paint. Next, conduct a “tape test.”

Tape test:
Put a 2-3" strip of transparent adhesive (“invisible”) tape down firmly onto your furniture’s surface, and then rip it off. If it is clean—that is, if no coating appears on the sticky side of the tape—you are ready for paint.

If paint still remains, you may want to rent or buy a heat gun. Heat guns pose a fire hazard, so make sure to follow all manufacturer’s instructions. Do not use a heat gun to remove old lead-based paint because it makes lead dust and harmful vapours.

A mild bleach or TSP will help get rid of any musty smell on your furniture.


 
Step 5 – Ready to Coat
 

Before you paint any furniture, make sure your surface has been scuff sanded, tacked and cleaned to remove any musty smell. A tape test will help you determine if your surface is ready for coating.

Need painting tips?

Painting Your Wood Furniture
Once you have selected a paint and colour, take a polyester nylon brush, for latex paint, or a natural bristle brush for oil-based paint, and apply it in long strokes. Cover your furniture with two coats of paint and wait 24 hours (for porch and floor paint) or 4 hours for premium latex paint.

TIP: You don’t need a primer when painting unfinished or properly prepared, previously coated furniture; however, a paint and primer in one product can offer increased coverage with less coats.

More painting to do tomorrow with the same colour? You don’t have to clean brushes and rollers when you take a break. Wrap them in sealed plastic to stay moist until you are ready to paint again.

TIP: If paint has hardened on the handle or along the edge of the bristles, soften it with warm water so that you can remove it before you begin to paint. Make sure you dry the brush before you dip it.


 
Step 6 – Clean and Be Green
 

Project finished? Don’t throw away the rollers and brushes. With proper cleaning and storage, good painting tools can be reused many times. Reusing them saves you time and money and also helps the environment because you’re generating less waste.

Cleaning Rollers
To remove excess paint, scrape the tool thoroughly or wipe it across cardboard or newspaper.

If you are removing latex paint, partially fill a sink with warm water and roll the applicator back and forth. You can also remove paint in a bucket of water. If necessary, add detergent to remove partially dried material. Rinse the roller until the water is clear. Let dry.

For oil-based paint, roll the applicator in a paint tray containing mineral spirits (petroleum distillate) or paint thinner. Next, wash the roller in soapy water. Rinse thoroughly and let dry.

Spin the roller to release excess moisture and then place it in a clean plastic bag (food storage bags work great).

Cleaning Paintbrushes
To remove excess paint, scrape the tool thoroughly or wipe it across cardboard or newspaper.

If you used latex paint, remove the excess paint in a bucket or container while the paint is still wet. It is much more difficult to remove dried paint with soap and water—if necessary, use a brush comb to remove it. Wash off the remaining paint under running water.

Oil-based paint should be removed in a bucket or container with mineral spirits (petroleum distillate), rinsed in tap water and then washed with soapy water. Rinse the brush until the water runs clear.

DANGER: Rags, steel wool, sanding dust or waste soaked with oil-based products may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. Immediately after each use, place rags, steel wool, sanding dust or waste in a sealed, water-filled metal container.

Moist paintbrushes can be wrapped in wax paper and sealed with a rubber band or aluminum foil to retain their shape. Hang the brush by the handle to maintain straight bristles and proper shape.

Storing Paint
An important step in planning your paint job is determining how you are going to store or dispose of your paint when your project is completed. You’ll want to protect your immediate environment and heed any local ordinances.

Valspar offers a number of easy and earth-friendly answers to the question, “What do I do with the leftover paint?”

Use it Up
If usable latex paint is left over after the project is finished, you can:

  • Use it for touching up your work or store it away for future fixes.
  • Mix small amounts of paint together and use it as an undercoat for future jobs.
  • Donate paint to charities (for example, Habitat for Humanity), church groups, community groups, theatre groups, schools or your neighbour.
  • Contact your local recycling centre to see if the cans and lids can be recycled.

Never place liquid paint in the trash or pour it down the drain.

Store It

Prepare your paint for storage: Label the paint can lid with the colour and location where the paint was used. To properly store your paint, make sure you tightly seal the can. First, wipe away any excess paint from the rim. Then cover the can opening with plastic wrap. Put the lid securely in place and tap it down with a mallet. Store the can upside down. If the can is leaking, place it in a leakproof container.

Store paint where temperatures are moderate. Temperature extremes can negatively affect paint and make it unusable. Never allow paint to freeze.

Quick-reference your stored cans by brushing a small amount of paint onto the outside surface (body of can or lid) and writing the colour name and number in permanent ink. You can also identify the room or wall that was painted with that colour.

You may also want to create and save a file on your computer of the paints you have placed in storage; that way, if someone tosses it by mistake you still have the information at your fingertips.

Keep paint in a safe location, away from children and pets.

Paint Disposal

Proper paint disposal contributes to a more efficient use of our landfills and, ultimately, safer groundwater and soil. We recommend the following tips:

  • Check local ordinances and waste hauler regulations.
  • Read paint can instructions for proper disposal.
  • Get rid of properly dried latex in your regular household trash; however
    • Cans with leftover paint should be left open so that the paint dries before disposal; make sure you place the drying cans in a properly ventilated area. Cans with less than a quarter of the paint remaining will require a few days of drying time; cans with larger amounts will take longer, about a week. You can also add shredded newspaper, sand, sawdust, cat litter or solidifier to the paint, which will absorb the excess liquid. These materials also work well in stopping paint spills from spreading on most surfaces.
    • Another solution is to punch holes in the top of the can and then place it in a dry area for a couple of weeks.
    • When the cans are ready to be thrown out, make sure the lids have been removed, to let waste haulers know the paint is dry.

NOTE: Oil-based paints, varnish and paint thinners are generally considered hazardous waste. Check with your municipality about any local ordinances and read label instructions before disposal—another good reason why you never want to spill paint on the back of your paint can label. Only dispose through your locally designated household hazardous waste program.

Recycling
The Valspar Corporation takes environmental sustainability and responsibility seriously. For instance, we’re doing our part both in how we formulate and how we manufacture our paints. Valspar paint and primer products displaying the Clean Air Formula™ logo means that they are low odour and low VOC. Low VOC denotes less than 50 grams of VOC per litre. In addition, we have saved over a million gallons of water usage in our latex plant operations through optimization and reuse programs.


 
Step 7 – Celebrate
 

Congratulations! You have successfully transformed your furniture.


 
 
 
 
Retail Locator
Find a Lowe's Store Now
 
See How-To Videos
Learn how to paint from start to finish.
Watch Videos